Cambio de Tercio

Perhaps we should have known better. When a restaurant tells you that they will only accept your booking if you agree to leave by 9.00 pm, then you should expect the service to be a little enthusiastic. And so it was at Cambio de Tercio on Saturday night.

We arrived promptly at 7.00 pm wanting to enjoy the most of our evening. Mojitos were ordered as we studied the menu for the best of its Iberian dishes. We selected from the tapas and main menu. We barely had a pause before our dinner arrived.

The cured beef ham served with carmelised figs was delicious. The sweetness of the fruit combined well with the smokiness of the ham that was notable for its freshness.

The Serrano ham croquettes were rich and flavoursome but were of an inconsistent temperature, no doubt reheated.

The fillet of beef served with chestnut puree was a real highlight – the beef was beautifully cooked but the aubergine chips on the side were a novelty and did little to enhance the dish. The Valencia rice with squid and cockles was another disappointing dish. The promised baby squid was barely detectable and the proportion of the dish was surprising small for what was a main dish. Curiously the squid ink was presented as a dressing.

Table service was far too prompt. Questions of double seating aside, dishes removed as quickly as the last person has been served detracted from the pleasures of eating. We like to linger over our food and this was certainly not an experience of slow eating. It was fast eating with a hefty bill.

To be fair, after being rushed through our mains, the service did slow. Desserts were more leisurely but it was clear that we were on our way out and that the table would be cleared just after 9 for the 9.30 seating.

The crème catalan – a Spanish crème brulee – was delicious. The sweetness of the crème laced with lime.

The Praline dish – a curious flotsam hiding cacao icecream and coffee sauce was an interesting choice for a Spanish restaurant. Noe, P.X., González Byass concluded our evening.

We were out by 9.00 pm as told after paying a £147.00 bill. We didn’t leave a tip. Perhaps Cambio de Tercio would be better during in the week but we won’t be going back in a hurry to find out. For a restaurant that is claimed to be the best Spanish restaurant in London, we were disappointed.

Address: 163 Old Brompton Road, SW5 OLJ

T: (020) 7244 8970

W: www.cambiodetercio.com